"My most memorable meal: 13 courses at a vegan restaurant in Copenhagen"

From irishtimes.com

By Órla Ryan

Everybody has a cross to bear, and mine is being a vegetarian who doesn’t like mushrooms.

Before you ask, yes – it is hard to get up in the morning. Yet I persist. The human spirit is truly indomitable.

More often than not, at whatever restaurant or wedding I’m attending, the vegetarian option involves mushrooms in some capacity. This often feels like a personal attack.

In August, I made it all the way to Copenhagen in Denmark. On a previous visit, I contemplated going to a Michelin-hyped restaurant but decided not to – it seemed an overindulgence in an already expensive city. This time around I took the plunge. 

Ark came highly recommended – “the best meal I’ve ever had”, one friend said. The vegan restaurant has a Michelin Green Star (the accolade recognises innovation and sustainability but is being “retired” next month).

I viewed the sample menu beforehand, so I knew what I was letting myself in for: two of the dishes revolved around mushrooms. Adapting the wise words of the philosopher Meat Loaf, I thought, “11 out of 13 ain’t bad”. So I found myself at a corner table with an empty stomach and high expectations.

Órla Ryan's starter at Ark

Things started off promisingly with a tartlet combining kimchi, dill and pear. It was divine. A stream of beautifully presented dishes followed, featuring an array of vegetables – “What do you mean that’s a potato? It’s a work of art!” – and vegan caviar (it’s seed-based, in case you were wondering). So far, so delicious.

Around the midway point, I had to face my fear: lion’s mane. A few bites validated my choice to live a fungi-free life. Mushrooms also featured in one of the “sweet” dishes, but the less said about that the better. I would do anything for dessert, but I won’t do that.

Vegan caviar at Ark

Every other dish was genuinely gorgeous. Most of the wine pairings were light, but the waiter – who trained at Adare Manor in Co Limerick – warned me that an apple wine served with dessert was “very strong”. Sceptical, I took a sip. I can only compare it to poitín – which, following that much food, was a bold move.

After five hours, I left very full and very satisfied. My friend was right – it was the best meal I’ve ever had, mushrooms aside.

https://www.irishtimes.com/food/2026/11/03/my-most-memorable-meal-13-courses-at-a-vegan-restaurant-in-copenhagen/