From veganfoodandliving.com
By Laura Briggs
When vegan runner Laura Briggs began preparing for an eco ultra challenge, she soon realised that the run would only be part of the battle...
I’ve been vegan long enough to know that even in the UK, eating out can occasionally present a challenge. So, when a plan for three of us to run 300 km across the Camino Primitivo in Spain was first pencilled into the calendar, I knew it wouldn’t be plain sailing. Northern Spain, after all, isn’t particularly well known for its plant-based cuisine.
But when our trio unexpectedly dwindled to just one, I found myself on the cusp of a solo adventure that would challenge me both mentally and physically. It was a journey I felt deeply compelled to complete.
I’m a member of The Green Runners, and the adventure was intentionally designed to demonstrate that we can travel sensitively, tread lightly, and significantly reduce our carbon footprint. For me, that meant a strict policy of no flying. I would travel by ferry and bus, carry absolutely everything I needed on my back, and, of course, maintain a vegan diet.
Into the Asturias mountains
My journey began on the ferry from Plymouth to Santander. I spent most of the 24-hour crossing trapped in my cabin, trying desperately to convince myself I wasn’t seasick and feeling incredibly alone. The moment I stepped onto terra firma, however, my spirits lifted. This run was going to be tough, but I reminded myself of our collective mantra: we can do hard things.
After a two-hour bus ride to the historic city of Oviedo – my official starting line – I woke the following morning at the ridiculous hour of 3:30 am. I set off into the pitch-black unknown of the Asturias mountains with a pack weighing just over 5 kg. Tellingly, a significant portion of that weight consisted of ‘back up’ vegan endurance bars, packed in case I was entering a total culinary desert.
My plan was to run an average of 40 km a day over seven days – including a brutal 60 km stint on day one – to reach the resting place of the apostle St James in Santiago de Compostela.
While I was physically fully trained for the mileage, nothing could prepare me for the daily logistics of sourcing meals. In the remote stretches of the Asturias mountains and through rural Galicia, food outlets are few and far between.
Each evening, I learned to become a tactical scavenger. Staying in albergues (pilgrim bunkhouses), I would occasionally be treated to a simple, delicious communal meal. Other nights, dinner just didn’t happen. I quickly learned to squirrel away the remains of the previous night’s dinner, taking leftover crusts of bread and pots of jam with me for the road, and stuffing my pack pockets with the fresh oranges that, luckily, seemed to grow everywhere.
This is just one of the incredible views Laura enjoyed during her epic journey. Photo © Laura Briggs
Highs and lows on the trail
On day one, I headed towards La Espina, leaving the city lights behind for the dense darkness of the mountains, navigating pine forests and dusty trails entirely alone.
In April, the Camino is still in its very early season. The pilgrims who eventually flood the paths toward the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela are few and far between until May. Village shops and bars were generally shuttered. It was a solitary, introspective journey.
Day two took me 40 km to Pola de Allande, which provided my absolute favourite evening meal of the trip. The Dutch owner of the albergue proudly presented a starter of warming lentil soup, followed by a hearty main of seasoned rice and vegetables. Best of all, they even surprised me with a chocolate soya pudding for dessert.
Spending the evening chatting with people from across the globe and sharing food in this humble, communal way is the true magic of the Camino.
Day three was my scenic highlight. I climbed 800 meters in just a few kilometres, feeling completely immersed in the wild Asturias landscape as herds of wild horses swept past. I felt incredibly strong, running the flats, hammering the downs, and fast-hiking the steep ascents.
I arrived in Castro, befriended the resident albergue cat, and luxuriated briefly in a hot shower. Dinner that night, however, left me wanting. Veganism isn’t a known concept in this part of Spain, and the albergue chef genuinely thought cheese was an acceptable substitute. I went to bed having eaten nothing but a single slice of roasted squash and a side of chips.
By day four, the physical rhythm had taken hold. It heavily frustrates me when people assume vegans lack the energy or stamina to tackle major physical endurance challenges. I derive a very personal satisfaction from proving those stereotypes entirely wrong.
As I powered through the miles, I kept my mind occupied by fantasising about all the wonderful things I would eat when I finally reached the finish line.
Culture shocks
On day five, mapping errors on my part turned the stretch from O Cádavo to San Román da Retorta into an unexpected 50 km ultra. I ran through the beautiful, historic Galician capital of Lugo, finding myself treading more on unforgiving tarmac than soft trail. The heat was intense. When I finally reached my albergue that evening, dead on my feet, sinking into a swinging hammock in the garden felt like absolute heaven.
With only two days left, day six brought a massive shift as the quiet Primitivo merged with the popular Camino Francés in the city of Melide. Suddenly, there were more walkers, more open cafés, and significantly less solitude.
At one point, a well-meaning man giving guided tours of a historic church kindly handed me a pain au chocolat. When he wasn’t looking, I discreetly disposed of it in a bin; I didn’t want to cause offence, and the language barrier made it exhausting to constantly explain what I could and couldn’t eat.
I reached the town of Arzúa with little left in the tank, the late afternoon heat becoming almost unbearable. Because it was a Sunday, the local supermarkets were locked up. My only option was a 24-hour express mini-mart, where I cobbled together a makeshift dinner of baguette, microwavable quinoa, and a jar of olives. I was hardly eating like a queen, but it was pure fuel.
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela marks the end of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. Photo © Laura Briggs
The grand finale
For the final leg into Santiago, I purposely took it easy, slowing my pace to soak in the stunning scenery and talk to my fellow pilgrims. Arriving in the majestic Praza do Obradoiro, the sheer realisation that I had completed 300 km entirely on my own two feet was completely overwhelming. I was rewarded with the spectacular view of the cathedral, looming large over the celebrating crowds.
After a long-awaited shower and a change of clothes, dropping my heavy backpack onto the floor of my accommodation felt glorious. My mind immediately pivoted to a singular focus: real food.
Having a full rest day in Santiago before beginning the long journey home allowed me to embark on a culinary victory lap. First, I visited Cascara Café for brunch, where I ordered not one breakfast, but two. I devoured a vibrant chia berry bowl alongside thick tomato and avocado toast, washed down with plenty of coffee and oat milk.
Later, I tracked down A Corre Vexeta, a phenomenal local eatery. Sitting there that afternoon, I felt like I had stepped into heaven. I feasted on exquisite mushroom and aubergine tacos drizzled with a cool sauce and pickled red onions, followed by a slice of Tarta de Flores – honestly the best dessert I have ever eaten in my life.
I paired it with a chilled glass of local white wine, and felt delightfully light-headed as the sugar, alcohol and accomplishment hit my system all at once.
Running 300 km over rugged mountains is entirely possible on a plant-based diet, and Santiago de Compostela proves that wonderful vegan options are waiting for you at the end of the road.
If you are planning your own Camino, my advice is to message your albergues well ahead of time to state your dietary needs, and always pack plenty of emergency fuel. You are never guaranteed to find options en route, but with a little planning, the journey is worth every single mile.
Ready to challenge yourself? Read our vegan guide to running
https://www.veganfoodandliving.com/features/vegan-green-runner-laura-briggs-300km-eco-pilgrimage/
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