The bearable lightness of tofu

From lifestyle.inquirer.net

By Juana M. Yupangco

To understand tofu is to understand something profound about the cultures that embraced it

Few foods in the world carry the weight of history, philosophy, and culture that tofu does. Made from coagulated soy milk pressed into soft white blocks, tofu is deceptively simple in appearance—yet it has shaped the diets, economies, and even spiritual practices of billions of people across Asia and beyond for over two thousand years.

It is a food that transcends mere sustenance.

Today, tofu is found in the kitchens of Buddhist monks and Michelin-starred restaurants alike

Today, tofu is found in the kitchens of Buddhist monks and Michelin-starred restaurants alike. It sits at the intersection of ancient tradition and modern food innovation. To understand tofu is to understand something profound about the cultures that embraced it—their values, their ingenuity, and their relationship with the natural world.

Accident turned historical icon

The story of tofu begins in China, most likely during the Han Dynasty (206 BCE – 220 CE). According to popular legend, tofu was accidentally discovered by a Chinese court cook named Liu An, who inadvertently curdled soy milk with salt brine.

Affordable, protein-rich, and versatile, tofu was embraced as a food of humility and practicality

Whether this story is entirely true remains debated among historians, but written records confirm tofu’s widespread use in China by at least the 10th century CE.

In Chinese culture, tofu—known as doufu—quickly became a staple of the common people. Affordable, protein-rich, and versatile, it was embraced as a food of humility and practicality. In Confucian thought, the simplicity of tofu came to symbolize moral purity and modesty. Serving tofu was not a sign of poverty, but a gesture of authenticity and groundedness.

Serving tofu was not a sign of poverty, but a gesture of authenticity and groundedness

China’s vast geography gave rise to an astonishing array of tofu styles. In Sichuan province, the iconic mapo doufu—silken tofu in a fiery sauce of chili oil, fermented black beans, and minced meat—is one of the most beloved dishes in Chinese culinary history. In Yunnan, the province’s unique climate and water quality produce a firm, fresh tofu often eaten grilled over open flames, directly at the market stall.

From China to the Philippines

Tofu arrived in the Philippines via trade with China’s Song dynasty (between 10th and 13th century). It was Fujian immigrants who made tofu a staple food in the Philippines in Chinese settlements such as Tondo and Cebu, but then started to spread to nearby villages as the Chinese settlers spread across the country.

The author’s Asian summer tofu recipe

Tokwa, which is the dry and firm version of tofu, was made to resemble meat and was soon incorporated into Filipino favourites such as adobo, or pancit (which has its roots from Chinese settlers). Today, tofu, tokwa, taho, and its derivatives are ingredients found in Filipino cuisine.

And tokwa’t baboy is probably the most “Filipino” iteration and use of tofu.

Tofu as an art form

In Japan, tofu arrived via Buddhist monks during the Nara period (710 to 794 CE), transmitted alongside the broader spread of Chinese culture, Buddhism, and Chinese writing.

Japan did not merely adopt tofu—it transformed it, refining the craft of tofu-making into something approaching an art form

Yet Japan did not merely adopt tofu—it transformed it, refining the craft of tofu-making into something approaching an art form.

Traditional ways and means of tofu

In Korea, tofu—called dubu—is embedded in both everyday cooking and festive tradition. Korean cuisine employs tofu in a remarkable range of preparations, from the famous sundubu-jjigae (soft tofu stew) to hearty braised dishes and pan-fried banchan (side dishes).

Korean tofu is generally firmer than its Japanese counterpart, suited to absorbing the bold, complex flavours that define Korean cooking—gochugaru (red pepper flakes), doenjang (fermented soybean paste), garlic, and sesame oil.

Historically, tofu in Korea was associated with prosperity and celebration. It was a prized food served at ancestral rites (jesa) and weddings. There is even a well-known Korean custom of giving newly released prisoners a block of white tofu—its pure white colour symbolizing a fresh start and a blank slate.

Korea has also developed a distinct tradition of fermented and seasoned tofu. Dubu-jorim—pan-fried tofu braised in a savoury, spicy sauce—is one of the most popular everyday dishes, present on nearly every Korean family table. Korean Buddhist cuisine, like its Chinese and Japanese counterparts, centres tofu as its primary protein source, with temple food (sachal eumsik) gaining international recognition in recent decades.

Integrated into daily cuisine

In Indonesia and Malaysia, tofu—called tahu or tauhu—is deeply integrated into daily cuisine.

Tahu goreng (fried tofu) is ubiquitous street food, served with peanut sauce, sweet soy sauce, and fresh cucumber. Gado-gado, the iconic Indonesian salad of vegetables and protein dressed in peanut sauce, typically features tofu prominently alongside tempeh, the other great Indonesian contribution to soy-based cuisine.

Tau kwa—a firm, pressed variety of tofu with Chinese origins—is a beloved ingredient in Singaporean and Malaysian hawker food, appearing in dishes like tau kwa pau (tofu stuffed with shrimp and vegetables) and tauhu bakar (grilled tofu with peanut sauce).

Meanwhile in Vietnam, tofu (dau phu) plays an essential role in vegetarian Buddhist cuisine, particularly on the 1st and 15th of each lunar month, when many Vietnamese Buddhists observe vegetarian days

Meanwhile in Vietnam, tofu (dau phu) plays an essential role in vegetarian Buddhist cuisine, particularly on the 1st and 15th of each lunar month, when many Vietnamese Buddhists observe vegetarian days. Sauteed with lemongrass, chili, and fish sauce alternatives, or simmered in tomato-based sauces, Vietnamese tofu preparations are bold and aromatic.

Thai cuisine incorporates tofu in its own distinctive way—in pad thai, in spicy soups, and in the rich, coconut-milk curries that define the country’s culinary identity. The Chinese Thai community has been particularly instrumental in establishing tofu as a mainstream ingredient throughout Thailand.

Tofu as a meat alternative

Tofu’s arrival in the Western world was gradual, carried by waves of Chinese and Japanese immigration in the 19th and 20th centuries, and later propelled by the 1960s and ‘70s counterculture movements that embraced plant-based diets, Eastern philosophy, and ecological consciousness.

With time, tofu lost its spiritual essence in the West and instead became associated with the veganism of the ‘80s.

Our Asian neighbours have revered tofu for its lightness, purity, and almost spiritual food. But tofu does not seem to carry the same meaning here in the Philippines, having lost its essence through time and trade, and often seen as a filler food for those who can’t have, or can’t afford meat. Natural food co-ops, vegetarian communes, and health food stores placed tofu at the centre of an emerging food movement that challenged industrial meat production.

The rise of veganism and plant-based diets in the 21st century has dramatically increased tofu’s popularity

Today, tofu is firmly established in Western mainstream food culture—appearing in supermarkets, fast-food chains, and fine-dining establishments alike. The rise of veganism and plant-based diets in the 21st century has dramatically increased tofu’s popularity, with younger consumers driving demand for tofu scrambles, crispy baked tofu, tofu-based cheese alternatives, and high-protein smoothie additions.

Western chefs have also embraced tofu as a canvas for culinary creativity. Techniques borrowed from Asian traditions—pressing, marinating, fermenting, frying—have been combined with Western flavour profiles to create a new genre of tofu cuisine that is distinctly contemporary yet rooted in ancient practice.

Asian summer tofu

This version of cold tofu combines Korean and Japanese flavours, and served over ice, perfect for the summer months

Tofu is a light meal that reflects flavours and spices well. In Korea, fresh tofu is eaten with kimchi, while in Japan, hiyayakko or cold tofu is made with fresh soft tofu, topped with green onions, ginger and soy sauce.

This version of cold tofu combines Korean and Japanese flavours, and served over ice, perfect for the summer months.

Ingredients

1 container soft tofu, sliced into bite-sized pieces

2 leeks, chopped finely

1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, grated

1/4 cup kimchi

1 Tbsp soy sauce

Procedure

Create the perfect bite. Layer the tofu with soy sauce, kimchi, leeks, and ginger for a cool and refreshing treat.

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