From reuters.com
The restaurateur behind Britain’s first Michelin-starred vegan restaurant discusses the rise of meat-free dining — and why he thinks diners should focus more on flavour than labels
Kirk Haworth trained as a chef in Michelin-starred kitchens around the world. But after he spent months bedridden with Lyme disease more than a decade ago, he changed his approach to cooking.
He cut out meat, dairy and refined sugar — an approach that ultimately led him to co-found “Plates,” an East London restaurant that this year became the first plant-based restaurant in Britain to earn a Michelin star. It joined a select group of restaurants that serve vegan cuisine and hold the designation, including New York’s three-star Eleven Madison Park and Switzerland’s one-star KLE.
Cornish potatoes, toasted hazelnut, sweet & sour apricot, a vegan dish on the menu at Plates restaurant in London, Britain, November 21, 2025. REUTERS/Sam Tabahriti
Speaking to Reuters from Plates’ kitchen — where the eight-course menu costs 109 pounds ($146) per person — Haworth, 38, reflects on his philosophy, the impact of the accolade, and why he believes the meat-free life can be enjoyed by everyone.
The following conversation has been edited for length and clarity.
What does it mean to you that most of your diners aren’t vegan?
It shows that plant-based food isn’t just for vegans. About 95% of our guests eat meat or fish elsewhere. That’s important because I don’t want people to come here for ideology — I want them to come for flavour.
We’ve had guests who didn’t even know the menu was plant-based until halfway through the meal. That’s what excites me — when people discover something new and realise it’s not about what’s missing, it’s about what’s there.
Plates became the first plant-based restaurant in Britain to earn a Michelin star earlier this year. Did you expect that?
It’s been a goal of mine since I first stepped into a kitchen at 15. But when it happened, it was still surreal. It’s a milestone for us and for plant-based cuisine. That recognition matters because it shows the industry is starting to value creativity in plant-based cooking.
What were the biggest challenges, or failures, you’ve faced getting to this point?
I was classically trained all my life (in a context) where meat and fish were always the basis of a new dish, (so) to almost throw away everything I was taught and start from a blank page was a huge challenge.
My biggest (failure) that hurt me the most was the first time I competed in the (BBC reality television series) “Great British Menu.” I messed up a lot of my dishes because the pressure of the show got to me and I remember crying when I got a seven out of 10 and then didn’t get through to finals week. It really affected me mentally. I struggled for months to get my confidence back.
How did your health shape your cooking?
I was living in Australia when I got sick. It took six years to find out it was Lyme disease. I was bedridden for nine months. My dad had to carry me from bed to car. It was a dark time, but it taught me a lot. Cutting out meat, dairy and refined sugar helped me heal, and that changed how I thought about food. I started cooking differently for myself, then for others. That was the beginning of Plates.
I used to journal what I ate and how I felt. White sugar was the worst. So, I started cooking without it and without dairy; and I realised the flavours were cleaner. That became a catalyst for everything I do now.
What’s the biggest challenge in creating a Michelin-level plant-based menu?
We focus on depth — acidity, umami, texture — and sometimes hide flavours under sauces so guests discover surprises.
We’re not trying to imitate meat or make things look like fish. We showcase vegetables for what they are. That means questioning everything — every recipe, every technique — and finding ways to make it better without animal products. It’s a mindset shift.
Do you have a signature dish?
We try to change dishes often, but one that’s stayed is our rice pudding ice cream. We wanted an ice cream without refined sugar or stabilisers, so we overcooked rice pudding, blended it, froze it and whipped it. The rice stabilises the texture, and you get this beautiful creaminess from coconut milk and vanilla. It’s nostalgic for me — I grew up eating rice pudding with jam at school. We serve it with fruit jam, chewy beetroot cooked in juice, and crunchy black rice.
What’s the biggest misconception about vegan fine dining you’d like to challenge?
People think vegan food is restrictive, but it’s the opposite. It forces you to be more creative. We question everything and find new ways to build flavour. That’s exciting.
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