From asia.nikkei.com
Search for sustainability and the pandemic are making diners think again
A standard piece of advice to anyone traveling to a new country is to pick up a few key words or phrases in the local language. Mine was usually "I am a vegetarian." Over many years of traveling, I learned to say this in various languages: "Soy vegetariana" in Madrid and Mexico City; "thathalo" in Myanmar; "Ich bin Vegetarierin" in Germany, and so on.
This phrase did not get me far in some countries. In France, for instance, saying "Je suis vegetarienne" invariably brought forth contemptuous looks and boiled vegetables. And in Asian destinations like Thailand and Cambodia, I had to keep sniffing suspiciously at my food, because fish sauce is not just a condiment but soul food in those parts. Also, I once had to pick out pieces of pork from my noodles, thrown in by a kind chef taking pity on my "tasteless" dish.
I was vaguely aware that many in Southeast Asia followed vegetarianism or veganism as a way of life, given the Hindu and Buddhist religious tenets of kindness and compassion. But even for these meat shunners, vegetarian dishes seemed to begin and end with tofu.
Things seem to have changed since the COVID-19 pandemic, though. Visiting Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam in the last 10 months I found myself pleasantly surprised. Even without asking, I came across cafes that were vegan and restaurants proudly advertising vegetarian food -- and I don't just mean hipster joints; mainstream restaurants and roadside eateries seem to have caught up, too.
In Bali, Indonesia, I sampled delicious nasi campur (a platter of brown rice served with seven different vegetable dishes) at a tiny shack, along with tempeh (fermented soybeans) tacos and mung bean pancakes at an upmarket cafe. In Hanoi, I slurped my way through meatless pho (rice and noodle soup), while vegetables took the place of fish in the amok (a coconut dish) I ate with rice in Siem Reap, Cambodia. And in Chiang Mai, Thailand, I had my fill of crunchy, spicy khao soi -- a popular noodle dish among Thais living near the border with Myanmar.
Left: The author is delighted with her steaming bowl of khao soi in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Right: An elaborate vegetarian meal in Ho Chi Minh City. Purists (and I mean meat and fish eaters) may frown or smirk at what they think are culinary abominations. But this was my first time trying these innately local dishes, and I was not particularly worried about authenticity. I was just happy to be spared the horrors of mock meat in the name of a vegetarian meal.
All my life, I have been an apologetic, somewhat defensive vegetarian. When asked, I was unable to clearly explain my reasons for choosing to stay off meat. My vegetarianism was initially the product of conditioning -- I come from an Indian family of strict vegetarians -- and I was not committed enough to raise my voice and demand better options.
But vegan travellers in the past few years have spoken up for what they believe in, staking their claim to good food. And it is these activists I have to thank for the plentiful food options I have when I travel today. Even in Malaysia, where I now live, I have seen a slow but steady rise in pop-up festivals, home caterers, specialist restaurants and even food delivery services devoted to meat-free meals.
Left: Pineapple fried rice to the rescue. Right: Even vegetarian salads have become more interesting in the last few years.Supermarkets and stores in this part of Asia are now overflowing with cruelty-free products that extend beyond food into clothing and makeup. According to Mintel Group, a U.K.-based market intelligence agency, launches of new consumer packaged plant-based goods grew by nearly 700% globally between 2015 and 2021. Even big brand conglomerates such as Unilever and Kellogg are vying for a share of this pie, devoting research efforts and resources toward plant-based protein sources and affordable alternatives to meat.
Socially and environmentally conscious consumers found themselves hit by the pandemic even as many were still trying to comprehend the extent of the climate change crisis. So it is not surprising that numerous reports chart the rise of a new breed of "conscious consumers" who are ready to pay extra for products that are ethically sourced and produced using sustainable materials and practices.
Nutrition aside, meat and seafood are still fairly cheap and accessible in much of Asia. Their popularity will not disappear quickly. But plant-based food is the future, and the change has already begun. It might even be enough to tempt a committed carnivore.
Charukesi Ramadurai is an Indian writer based in Malaysia.
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