From vogue.co.uk
Vegan leather remains a contentious issue in fashion. On the one hand, we know that animal leather has a large carbon footprint, with the cattle industry also being a major driver of deforestation. On the other hand, most vegan leather is still made from synthetic materials – or in other words, plastic.
Nanushka is one brand that’s been committed to vegan leather since the beginning. “We began using alternative leather as [part of our] commitment to animal welfare,” Sandra Sandor, the founder of the Budapest-based label, tells Vogue. “But it wasn’t just that: we knew the impact of real leather [when it comes to] land use, GHG emissions and biodiversity loss. Turning animal skin into leather also [typically] requires massive amounts of energy and chemicals.”
While clear about the benefits of using animal-free leather (according to Kering’s Environmental Profit & Loss tool, leather has three times the environmental impact of synthetic fibres), Sandor is aware that using virgin synthetics as a replacement is not a perfect solution. That’s why Nanushka is launching a new vegan alternative, Okobor, made from 56 per cent recycled polyester and 44 per cent polyurethane. Developed in-house, it might not be 100 per cent recycled yet but it’s produced using a dry method that requires 80 per cent less water in comparison to wet processing methods and doesn’t require the harmful chemicals that are often used in the tanning process.
“We have worked with our suppliers to ensure we can have the same quality – this buttery, luxurious touch, [while] ensuring [the new material] has a reduced impact,” Sandor explains. “We are also working with an external partner to calculate the carbon footprint and related savings that this material is bringing to our collections, which I’m very excited about.”
For Sandor, the quality and look of alternative leather is essential when considering the longevity of Nanushka’s pieces going forward. “If you’re looking at sustainability, it’s crucial to not compromise on beauty and aesthetics,” she says. “We have investigated several [other] alternatives, from pineapple-plant fibres to bio-based solutions, and actually a lot of these solutions still require some petroleum-based products to hold the fibres together.”
Indeed, even the most innovative of materials, including Mylo, made from mycelium – aka mushroom roots – contain some synthetics. The few leather alternatives that are plastic-free – such as MycoWorks’s Reishi material, also made from mycelium, and Natural Fiber Welding’s plant-based Mirum are still in the process of scaling.
While Okobor is an improvement on the wholly virgin-based vegan leather Nanuskha has used to date, Sandor is clear that the innovation is just the beginning for the brand. “We believe that this represents the first step,” the designer comments. “We will keep on researching new solutions that will allow us to further reduce the impact of our alternative leathers.”
In the meantime, Nanushka’s new material is in keeping with the brand’s wider sustainability strategy, which includes working towards a more circular business model. Last year, it began introducing regenerated leather into its collections, as well as teaming up with Rent The Runway and Hurr to rent out its pieces. The brand also offers a repair service, as well as selling deadstock items via its Retrospective outlet store. “We’re definitely having conversations about [how we can expand rental and resale],” Sandor says. “Moving to a circular business model is essential – it can allow the industry to decouple economic growth from the use of natural resources.”
Given the fact that its new vegan leather isn’t currently recyclable, extending the life cycle of Nansuhka’s garments is crucial from an environmental perspective. With this in mind, is vegan leather truly a more sustainable alternative to conventional leather? Sandor certainly thinks so. And with so much innovation taking place at the moment, alt-leathers are only likely to get more and more sustainable moving forward. Watch this space.
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/nanushka-new-vegan-leather
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